Handyguys Podcast

House and Tools

Welcome to the Handyguys website. This site is the home of the Handyguys Podcast. Our podcasts feature your questions, head-to-head tool tests and other DIY and home improvement topics. If you have a question regarding your home, let us know using the "contact" tab above or email us at us@handyguyspodcast.com. If possible, we will respond to your question via email and may use your question on-the-air in a future broadcast.

Our weekly podcasts are posted every Thursday at 5PM ET. If you would like to subscribe to our podcast, use the podcast links on the right or just play them in your browser. To play the podcast in your browser just click on the play button just to the right of the microphone at the top of the particular article you are interested in. iPod users can subscribe through iTunes by clicking the iTues button in the feeds section to the right. We look forward to answering your questions and helping you around the home!

This site is completely free and supported only by sales in our store and through support of our advertisers. Please help us keep on the air by checking out our advertisers and shopping in our store. Our store is through a partnership with Amazon. They handle all the shipping, billing, etc. If you trust Amazon for your online shopping you can trust The Handyguys.

Our podcasts feature:

  • Head to head tool tests
  • Answers to your questions
  • And other home improvement and DIY topics

Episode #16 To DIY your basement or not… that is the question

The Handyguys May 8th, 2008

 
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The Handyguys discuss how to evaluate whether finishing your basement is a job for the DIYer. They also discuss a new site for finding and reviewing contractors.

Episode #1 in the Basement Finishing Series

The gas fireplace going in and complete in Handyguy Brian’s basement

a during and finished shot of part of Handyguy Brian’s basement

There are many projects to do around the house but sometimes the handy guy can bite off more then he (or she) can chew. The Handyguys discuss the basic issues to consider when determining whether a new projected should be contracted out or performed yourself.

Some of the topics discussed include:

  • How Long will it take?
    • weeks, months, years to never finish
  • How much will it cost?
    • A little to a lot
  • When to bring in a subcontractor
  • DIY satisfaction
  • Do you have the right tools and skills?

Even if you have the ability to do the job, there are a lot of issues to consider before doing it yourself. In addition to carpentry skills, you need time, patience, lots of tools and a good back to finish your basement. If you are lacking in any of these categories, you may want to consider hiring a contractor for the job.

The Handyguys then discuss an article from remodelingmagazine.com. Its their annual cost vs. value report. Some of the data is excerpted below.

2007 National Averages
Project Job Cost Resale Value Cost Recouped
Basement Remodel
$59,435
$44,661
75.1%
© 2007 Hanley Wood, LLC. Reproduced by permission. Complete city data from the Remodeling 2007 Cost vs. Value Report can be downloaded for free at costvalue.remodelingmagazine.com.
 

HomeStarsThe Handyguys then discuss how to find a good contractor. Turn to your neighbors was Paul’s suggestion. But what if you do not have a neighbor or friend who has had their basement finished? What then?It was agreed that just hitting the yellow pages may not be a good route. You need some good, objective advice. You can get that advice at www.homestars.com.

This website is designed to help you review and research contractors that are in your local area. Check it out… it may save you a lot hassle in the future. Check it out!

Lastly - So, you are going to go through with it or you have already finished your basement.  The Handyguys will be continuing to talk about finishing your basement over the next few weeks. If you have finished your basement yourself and would like to chat with the Handyguys on the air about your experience just let us know. If you are in the middle of a project and would like to dialog on the air about where you are in the process we would be open to that as well. email us@handyguyspodcast.com or use the contact tab on the website.

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Episode #15 - Green Lawns

The Handyguys May 1st, 2008

 
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The Handyguys talk about keeping a green and weed free lawn.

The good a bad of lawns

Soil Test Kit

Now that you have your mower ready for the new season (after listening to show #14), it is time to discuss proper lawn care. Anyone can hire a lawn service, but the Handyguys prefer the DIY method. Get down to the home center, buy your weed and feed, and start fertilizing before the summer heat strikes. Listen to the podcast for all of the details.

Before beginning your lawn care program (or even if you have already started), it is good to conduct a soil test to determine that status of your soil. The results from a soil test will reveal what nutrients your lawn requires and whether you need to add lime or sulfur to achieve the proper pH.

You can add specific ingredients in your fertilizer plan or just follow a seasonal plan from a company like Scotts or Vigoro. These products should be designed for your region of the country.

Some folks prefer more organic methods of lawn care. More information on organic products can be found here:

Dirt Doctor

Richsoil

The fertilizer programs will only address weeds and nutrients. You may also have specific pests or disease. A healthy lawn is the best defense against lawn disease. Lawn pests include moles, grubs and even mold. Controlling grubs will eliminate a food source for the moles. Watering properly will prevent mold and fungus.

Broadcast SpreaderBoth Handyguy Brian and Handyguy Paul recommend a broadcast spreader for DIY fertilizer applications.

 

Rain guage with sprinkler gauge So, how much should you water? The Handyguys, and their expert advisers, recommend about 1” of water per week. This means watering the entire inch at one time in early AM or late afternoon. Do not water at night as this can promote fungus. How do you determine you have applied 1” of water? You can use a rain gauge, a fancy timer, or you can just put out a soup can when you water and when it has an inch of water in it you are done. The rain gauge in the picture is only $1.99 in our store and comes with a separate sprinkler gauge. Just click here for the rain gauge. Don’t forget to factor in the water from the rain. A deep soak like this will help promote deep root growth.

What is the proper height to mow for a health lawn? It depends on the type of grass. Generally speaking you want to mow at 3” and never cut more than a third of the blade at one time.

But if you really want to get lawn care right… listen to our podcast.

Please note an error in the podcast: Paul incorrectly states that your second fertilizer application should occur before “Labor Day”. He meant to say “Memorial Day” and that is what he thought he said… but I guess recordings don’t lie!

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Episode #14 - Getting that Mower Going!

The Handyguys April 24th, 2008

 
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The Handyguys discuss annual spring maintenance for your lawn mower

For many of us in the northern parts of the USA, it is that time of year when we get the lawn mower out for the first time. Most of us probably use tradition walk behind mowers with combustion engines. Like our cars, these tools require maintenance to keep them humming along from year to year. The Handyguys discuss how you can handle these basic maintenance items yourself:

We start off by talking about mower safety and some crazy mower stories before we get into the basics of spring mower tune-up.

Basic Spring mower tune up consists of checking and maybe replacing the spark plug, cleaning or replacing the air filter, sharpening your blade, cleaning the deck and changing the oil.

This is an example of a bad sparkplugChanging the spark plug – The spark plug only needs to be changed if its black, burnt, or damaged. If it looks clean when you remove it only replace it if you are having trouble with the mower running smooth or not starting. This picture is an example of a badly fouled plug that needs replaced.

This filter could likely be cleaned with compressed air or a brush. I chose to just replace it.Replacing an air filter – make sure you get the correct air filter. There are many sizes and styles. The filter can be cleaned with compressed air or a brush. If its really bad just go ahead and replace it. Some filters are foam and can be washed in warm soapy water. Do not re-install a washed filter until its completely dry.

Sharpen your mower bladeSharpening a blade – You can use a file or a grinder to sharpen your blade. Make sure you use the same angle as the previous sharpening. Handyguy Brian got this heavy duty grinder for only $25, including the stand, at an auction. An inexpensive grinder will be fine for this task. A Dremel tool or even just a plain old file will do the trick as well. A sharp blade makes a better cut and helps keep your grass healthy.

Clean the grass and removing the mower bladeCleaning the mower deck – Sorry I don’t have an after picture. Use a scraper and a wire brush to clean up the mower deck. This is especially important for mulching mowers. If you have rust, sand that and hit it with some primer and paint.

Changing the oil – Do this every year. Make sure you use the proper oil and the correct amount. Most mowers will use SAE 30 oil. Do not use 10W-30, its different and will likely void any warranty you may have. Regardless – Check your owners manual first for the correct oil.

Learn more by listening to this installment of the Handyguys Podcast!

And remember – You can always ask The Handyguys a question about your DIY or home improvement project by calling us at (615) 676-0877 or using the contact form.

We respond to all questions and may use your question in a future episode.

Our podcasts are made possible through revenue at our store. Our store is a partnership with Amazon. Some of our favorite tools are listed here


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Episode #13 - The Cold Water Heater

The Handyguys April 17th, 2008

 
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The Handyguys answer questions about Hot water heaters (or is it “cold water” heater?) and discuss basic water heater maintenance.

Please note: The Handyguys apologize for some technical difficulties which led to a broadcast with some snap, crackle and pops. We expect next week’s podcast to have this problem corrected.

Natural Vent gas hot water heaterBasic components of a water heater, T&P, expansion tank, water supply, gas lineGas Valve and drain valveGas shut-off valveBrian and Paul discuss the maintenance of your hot water heater. Everyone owns one but you don’t always get instructions on how to maintain the heater in your home. We just expect it to work and it usually does. However, every hot water heater will fail at some point and you will typically discover this one day when you have to settle for a cold shower. Even worse, you end up with water leaking all over your basement floor from the hot water tank.

The Handyguys own gas water heaters but much of what they discuss in this episode applies to both electric and gas water heaters.

T&P ValveThermocouple, Pilot and ignitionWhat are the key components of a hot water heater? How do you maintain the heater? Are there maintenance tips to prolong the life of our heater and avoid the expensive plumber bill? The Handyguys discuss these basic questions in the first half of the podcast. In addition to basic water heater maintenance, a sad story about an electrocution caused by a faulty water heater is discussed.

The Handyguys also answer a couple listener questions about finicky gas hot water heaters with pilot lights that keep going out. Check out this weeks podcast on hot water heaters.


As always - you can click on a thumbnail image for a full size view. If you like our podcasts please consider shopping in our Amazon store for your next online purchase or support our advertisers. Thanks - The Handyguys

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Episode #12 - Katrina Update

The Handyguys April 10th, 2008

 
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Fixing Homes in Mississippi Gulf - Bay St. Louis

The Handyguys start off with a reminder of their contact information: Use the contact us tab on the website, call 615-676-0877 or email us@handyguyspodcast.com.

On August 23rd, 2005 hurricane Katrina came through Bay St Louis, MS with about a 30′ tidal storm surge and 100+ MPH winds. The area was devastated. New Orleans got most of the media coverage in the days after the storm but small cities along the coast, like Bay St. Louis ,were hit even harder.

The Handyguys have done volunteer work, post Katrina, in partnership with Lagniappe Presbyterian Church (PCA). We are taking a time out from our regular style podcasts to do an interview with Curt Moore from Lagniappe. Please listen to this podcast to hear this featured interview with Curt Moore, Associate pastor and Disaster Relief Coordinator for Lagniappe.

Curt describes Bay St. Louis before Katrina and then explains what it was like after the storm. He also explains how Lagniappe church got started and provides a status update of how the area is coping two and a half years after the storm. To date Lagniappe has built 28 new houses in addition to the many houses they have repaired or restored.

Curt describes planting a church that includes a construction company, hotel, restaurant and travel agency in addition to a place to worship! Lagniappe has the capacity to house, feed and manage 350 volunteers per day for rebuilding efforts. The church ministers to people’s physical and spiritual needs. Curt describes this concept as “Participating in the declaration and demonstration of the Gospel”.

Brian had the opportunity to help out with two houses affectionately referred to as the “twins” because they share an identical footprint and are located in adjacent lots. Their configurations are slightly different. House one is a three bedroom one bath. House two is a 3 bedroom two bath. House one has a much larger porch, house two has more interior square feet. Below are a few pictures from Brian’s recent trip.

Two new houses affectionately referred to as the twinsthetwins1.JPGthetwins2.JPGthetwins3.JPGthetwins3b.JPG

Please also take some time out to view a brief movie about Lagniappe

http://www.maxcast.com/lpcvideos

If you are interested in bringing down a team please do so. Contact Cammie Chapman for Reservations, group sign-up, etc. Additional Information for teams is also available.

Remember - if you like listening to the Handyguys please consider supporting us via purchases at our store.

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Episode #11 - A Step Up

The Handyguys April 3rd, 2008

 
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The Handyguys answer a question about using bondo on rotted wood and they discuss the different varieties of ladders.

The Handyguys Brian & Paul answer a question about using Bondo for wood repairs submitted by Moe.

Question

My house was built in the late 70’s and lately I’ve noticed that some of the windowsills (exterior) have patches of rot. Replacing a windowsill seems like it might be beyond my expertise so I’m wondering about removing the rot and filling it with something. I’m told Bondo is a bad idea. Do you have any recommendations on what to use and how to tackle a job like this?”

Thanks for contacting us Moe. This is a great question.

The Handyguys start off discussion what Bondo is and how it can be used for wood repair applications.

Below are excerpts of The Handyguys email responses to Moe. More details are available in the podcast.

My first inclination is to replace the rotted wood. Weather or not you need to do this depends on the extent of the damage. Feel free to email us a few pictures and we can give you a better assessment. In my opinion replacing the wood is actually easier and looks significantly better when done. I sometimes have trouble making a patch disappear after I paint. If replacing the wood is definitely out then you have a few general steps.

1) Remove ALL loose wood, rotted wood, dust and debris. If you do not get out the rot it may continue deeper. A tool like a Dremel can help with this along with scrapers, utility knives and so forth.
Dremel
http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/the-handy-guys-store?B0000302XV
Carving Bits
http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/the-handy-guys-store?B00005LEXW

2) Harden remaining fibers
There are products made for this such as
http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/the-handy-guys-store?B000BPINKS
Or, if you had a ready supply of Cyanoacrylate (super glue) you could use that to harden the fibers (the liquid type, not the gel)

3) Fill with exterior grade wood filler such as
http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/the-handy-guys-store?B000BQL0WA

4) Sand smooth

5) Prime and paint

The hard part is when you have edge details or unusual shapes.

I have never used Bondo but I do not see why your couldn’t as long as you went through getting the old rot out and hardening the fibers first.

Handyguy Brian

And Paul’s 2cents

Moe,

Just to piggy back on what Brian already said. I have used bondo on exterior wood applications and I like it. I used the version that is sold in the paint section of the big box stores for just this application. I think it is the same as the auto version.

I have used Bondo on a rotted porch post. I cleaned out as much rot as possible and applied the Bondo. It hardens fast so you have to get used to it. In my opinion Bondo works better for exterior applications then most other wood fillers for this purpose.

My porch posts have held up great. Make sure you prime and paint after it hardens. You can do this same day I believe because it hardens so fast.

Here is a link to Bondo for wood. (Sorry, its not available in our store)

http://www.3m.com/US/auto_marine_aero/Bondo/catalog_item27aa.html?itemNbr=119

Good Luck,

Handyguy Paul

The Handyguys then go on to speculate that Moe may need to work from a ladder and realize that they didn’t include ladders in their home toolkit show. This evolves into a discussion about various types of ladders.

Types of ladders discussed

Typical A frames in fiberglass, wood and aluminum. Paul likes the ones with fancy attachments.

Extension ladder pros and cons in fiberglass, aluminum and wood are discussed.

Brian likes the Little giant type

Little Giant Ladder

http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/the-handy-guys-store?B0000224MC

Paul highly recommends a ladder stabilizer with any extension ladder.

Ladder stabilizer

http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/the-handy-guys-store?B0000224MC

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Episode #10 - Deck Woods and Refinishing

The Handyguys March 27th, 2008

 
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The Handyguys discuss decking materials and refinishing your deck.

The weather is starting to get warmer and many of us are thinking about getting outside again to use our decks. If you have a deck, it is time to think about cleaning and refinishing your deck for the summer season. If you don’t have a deck, then you may be thinking about building one. But what material should you use to build that deck?

Most decks are built with pressure treated wood. However there are many alternatives to this common decking material. One of the more popular new materials is composite decking which is sometimes made with recycled plastics and saw dust. The Handyguys discuss their opinions on several kinds of woods and composites, including cedar, red wood, ipe and tiger wood. So whether you are considering composites or Brazilian hard woods, you should check out this podcast.

The other issue that many of us face is refinishing that deck (unless you already have a composite deck). There are a few methods for cleaning and refinishing so check out episode 10 of the Handyguys podcast!

Comments are always welcome. Also, feel free to contact The Handyguys with your DIY or Home Improvement questions.

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Happy Easter!

The Handyguys March 20th, 2008

The Handyguys are off this week but will be back next week with a show on Decks.  We will look at outdoor decking materials and deck maintenance.  Check us out next week.

Upcoming show schedule:

The Deck Show

The Ladder Show

Hurricane Katrina Update

Have a great Easter!

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Episode #9 - Drill It!

The Handyguys March 13th, 2008

 
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The Handyguys discuss and test drills

Drills - From left to right - Milwalkee #1630, Makita HP1621FK, old Craftsman, Makita LXT BHP451, Milwalkee Magnum 0234, Bosch LIon PS20, Porter Cable 9966In this episode, the Handyguys discuss the basic variety of drills. They also answer a couple questions about the the best drill to use for difficult jobs like putting large holes in joists and drilling holes in concrete.

There is an amazing variety of drills on the market today so it is difficult to know where to begin — cordless, corded, or lithium ion — contractor grade or low-end. Hopefully you can build a solid, standardized drill arsenal by listening to this podcast.

Aftermath of drill testsIn response to these questions, the Handyguys test out a table full of drills in the garage. For their tool challenge, they see which of the seven different drills can handle putting a large auger bit through a piece of tough oak. In addition, they set a cordless hammer drill against a corded hammer drill in a concrete hole contest.

Results of the 3/4″ auger bit through 5/4 Red Oak:

Corded vs cordless hammer drill test in concrete (2″ deep hole with 3/16″ tapcon):

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Episode #8 - In The Toilet!

The Handyguys March 6th, 2008

 
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The Handyguys talk about the dirty side of home improvement — well, unless you clean it regularly. The toilet is something nearly everyone owns (unless you live in back woods Appalachia), and everyone has to address the persnickety problems presented by a toilet.

When a toilet fails, you may be left with a water bill that is 10 times higher than normal. Before you have this kind of problem, it is a good idea to learn a little about how your toilet works.

Tan, fill valve, flapper, flush handle

The toilet is composed of a bowl and a tank. Within the back tank, where the water reservoir is located, you will find two main components (just lift up the lid and look inside). The first component is the fill valve.

This valve is connected to your house water via a short section of hose or pipe which connects to the fill valve at the bottom of the tank. This short hose or pipe is normally connected to a shutoff valve on the wall, which feeds water to the toilet. Older houses may not have this shutoff valve because it was not in residential codes a long time ago.

The fill valve’s duty is to add water to the tank when you flush. As the water rises in the back tank, a float rises up and turns off the fill valve at the proper time. Hopefully!

The other main component in the tank is the flush or flapper valve. This valve opens up when you flush to allow the water to flow down from the tank into the bowl.

Trap from outside.

Another important component that is more difficult to see is the trap underneath and in back of the toilet bowl. This trap keeps sewer gases from coming into the house. It also keeps the water in the bowl and helps to create a siphoning action of the water when you flush to suck out all the “debris”.

Now let’s address the problems common to toilets. The biggest problem is a toilet that leaks. In most cases you will hear the refilling when it is not being used, but in some situations there will be no auditory warning (thus a big water bill). How can you tell that the toilet is leaking at all and that your big water bill is not being caused by long morning showers?

The simplest method to diagnose this problem is to put dye, such as food coloring, into the water tank. After putting the dye into the tank, come back in an hour or so to see if the colored water has migrated down into the bowl (the water will remain clear in the bowl of a toilet that is operating correctly). If the colored water has migrated to the bowl, you have a leaking toilet. There are two possible causes for this leak. The more common reason is that your rubber flapper valve is leaking. This is the valve or stopper at the bottom of the tank that lifts up when you flush the toilet. When the toilet is not being used, it should prevent any water from flowing down into the bowl. If this flapper fails, your fill valve will keep refilling the tank as the water level recedes. Normally you will hear this when it happens.

If your flapper valve is failing, you can often fix the problem by cleaning around and under the flapper. In some situations, grit builds up underneath the flapper, preventing a good seal. On occasion, you can provide a longterm fix by cleaning the area on the bottom of the tank where the rubber flapper makes this seal. If cleaning does not work, you can easily replace the flapper for a few bucks. The Handyguys like the newer Korky flush valves, which can be found at the big box stores. Be sure that your new flush valve fits correctly. Test it by flushing the toilet to determine if the new flapper has a good seal. Also, lift up the float so that the tank fills up over the overflow tube, and confirm that the water runs through the overflow tube without running over the top of your tank. Paul has seen a situation where a wrong-sized flapper valve constricts the flow of the overflow tube and prevents it from working well.

Once you learn how to replace the flapper, it is like changing a light bulb. If you have hard water, you may have to replace it every year.

The other possible problem related to large water bills is when the fill valve is failing and slowly and continually adds water to the tank. You may not hear this when it happens. When you have this problem, your dyed water will run down the overflow tube in the tank and into the bowl. But how do you determine that the fill valve is the problem? One way is to mark the water level in the tank with pencil right after a flush and a tank fill. Make sure that your water is turned off when you do this test. Check back after 30 minutes and see if you water level has receded. If it has, your problem is probably with the flush valve as we stated above. But if your water level remains the same, then most likely your problem is with the fill valve. The water is continually running through the faulty fill valve into the tank and going over the overflow tube.

Supply line

How do you fix a fill valve? You can replace it completely or you can replace its washers (on some models). If you want to replace it completely, it will only cost about $15. Just turn off the water and flush the toilet to get the water out of the tank. You may want to use a sponge to get all the remaining water out. Remove the supply tube that connects to the bottom of the tank — it is connected with a large nut.

Again, make sure the wall valve is off before performing this operation! Since many toilet wall valves are not reliable, the Handyguys often turn off the entire house water before doing this procedure. After loosening the large nut, there is normally a smaller nut that connects the fill valve to the bottom of the tank that releases the fill valve unit. You can now lift the fill valve out of the tank.

Another problem you may face is that your tank fills up too high or too low after a flush. Normally the water height can be adjusted. With newer toilet parts, there is a float attachment as part of the fill valve. This float device can be raised and lowered accordingly to get the correct water level (most toilet tanks have a mark to locate the proper level). On older toilets, there is usually an arm attached to a float bulb. You can often just bend this arm some to make the adjustment of the water level.

What do you do if you discover that the toilet is leaking water onto the floor? This sort of leak could be caused by a bad hose connection to the bottom of tank. This connection may require adjustment or tightening. It is also possible that this nut requires replacement. In addition, the toilet may be leaking between the tank and bowl, or between the toilet and the floor. Listen to this Handyguys episode for their recommendation on fixing this issue. Hint: mopping up the floor only addresses the symptom, not the cause!

Using a “closet auger” to clear a clogThe the other major quandary we all face is the clogged toilet. The Handyguys provide some suggestions for toilets that always seem to clog.

Feel free to use the comment feature below to post your specific toilet questions.

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