We address a question about shed materials and foundations as well as briefly discuss LED light bulbs.

Sheds

The Handyguys received a call from Rick from Sawdust Chronicles and The Splintered Board podcasts.  He asked

What materials are good for shed siding? Do I need a concrete slab for my shed?

Great questions Rick.

Materials

Sheds can be built with many different choices in materials. Some people will build them with the same types of finishes of their house (siding choice, colors, etc) sometimes people would do something different. A quick google search will turn up thousands of different looks.

If you don’t want to try and go to the trouble of matching siding and roofing from your house, and want to keep things simple, there is a commonly used siding called t1-11. Its exterior rated plywood that looks like board and batten siding. You can also get a version made from OSB that comes pre-primed. I think that’s called “smart panels”. I really like fiber cement siding, i haven’t used it on a shed but its on the top of my list for my next shed. Some brands come pre-primed or pre-painted.

Foundations/slabs

You will want to check with your municipality to determine if you need a permit. In most places you do not need a permit if the shed is build directly on the ground, usually with 4×4 PT runners sitting on some patio bricks. When build this way its not considered a permanent structure. When you build on a slab it is usually considered permanent and will require a permit. Again, check with your code people as this varies. Some areas will also require anchors in the ground, or slab, to prevent it from blowing away in high winds.

Also consider having someone build one for you or deliver one pre-made. My last shed I was going to build it myself but a local company was having a sale. They were able to build me a shed for less money than I could have bought the materials. One man came with the shed pre-build in sections (walls, roof, floor) and pout it together in just a couple hours. I painted it and built a ramp. I saved a few hundred bucks.

Listen to this podcast for The Handyguys discussing all these points.

LED Light bulbs

Handyguy Paul came across a new LED Light bulb from GE. Some of the claims from GE’s press release are:

• Expected to consume just 9 watts—compared with 40-watt incandescent/halogen or 10-watt CFL, while delivering nearly the same light output;
• Expected 25,000-hour rated life—will last 17 years (4 hours per day), which is 25 times longer than a general service 40-watt incandescent or halogen bulb and more than 3 times longer than a standard 8,000-hour rated life CFL;
• LED technology delivers the instant full brightness of an incandescent or halogen bulb;
• Durable solid-state design with no filament to break;
• Contains no mercury and will be RoHS compliant; and
• Feels cooler to the touch than CFLs and far cooler than incandescent bulbs.

Discussing bulbs leads Handyguy Brian to make a clam that short life bulbs have planned obsolescence and that some of Edison’s original bulbs are still burning today. Maybe Brian was imagining things but there are definitely some very old light bulbs still in use today. The discussion further digressed into who preferred DC versus AV electrical, Tesla, Edison or Westinghouse. Seems Paul was correct. Edison was a proponent of DC electrical for the grid and Westinghouse was a proponent of AC.

From wikipedia:

In the “War of Currents” era (sometimes, “War of the Currents” or “Battle of Currents”) in the late 1880s, George Westinghouse and Thomas Edison became adversaries due to Edison’s promotion of direct current (DC) for electric power distribution over alternating current (AC) advocated by Westinghouse and Nikola Tesla.

Thanks Paul for setting Brian straight. Listen to the podcast to hear the discussion.

The Handyguys discuss what nailer you use when. A pneumatic nailer takes much of the work or of driving nails and saves you time. With one pull of the trigger the nail is set flush or below the surface of the work. Nailers allow for one handed operation which frees up your other hand for positioning the work. A nailer can also get into tight or awkward locations where it would be virtually impossible to swing a hammer. There are nailers for interior trim, crown molding, chair rail, craft projects, woodworking, framing, building a deck or roofing. There are many many specialty nailers designed for specific jobs.

In this show we address a few questions about nailers from one of our fans Eddie. Eddie wrote us and asked.

I am doing a complete kitchen remodel as you may remember. To help me in this I got a set of 4 Campbell Hausfeld nail guns from Lowe’s. Now my dad owned nail guns and I saw him use them. But I was never allowed to use them very much and don’t know much about them. ( I know they are dangerous and that you have to oil them, usually with an oiler place in line on the air hose)

I need a resource for learning about these machines and the finer points of using them. What kind of maintenance etc. what kind of nails they are capable of using ( are there just one or two sizes per gun?) When do I choose which gun? I have some common sense but don’t have enough experience or education to know what question to ask.

This is quite a question! Eddie, we have dedicated this entire show to your questions. You asked the right questions.

First a run down of the most common nailguns

Maintenance

Most pneumatic nail guns need to be oiled. You mention an in-line oiler. This option probably didn’t come with your kit. They can be added to facilitate automatic oiling of your tools. The disadvantage is you will have oil in your hose which is really bad if you are going to use the compressor for spraying paint. Most people will usually just add a few drips of tool oil in the air inlet before using the tool.

Safety

Be sure to read an follow all the instructions that came with your kit. Safety glasses are a must.

Tip!!

Paul had a really random tip to wrap up the show. Door stoppers, get the spring loaded ones, not the solid ones. You have to listen to the show to understand why.

Phased Remodeling, Vinyl Siding and Grading

Phased Remodeling

Painting is an easy and relatively inexpensive way to change the look of a room.

In this episode The Handyguys start off discussing Phased remodeling inspired by an article in a recent “Home Improvement Times”. What is phased, or serial remodeling? Are there advantages to this approach in tough economic times? What are the disadvantages? We then address two listener questions, one on what should be included in a vinyl siding job and one about grading, moisture and stucco. Listen to the podcast for a discussion by The Handyguys Brian & Paul.

Vinyl Siding

We then address a question from a listener about vinyl siding, Lou Ann writes:

I really enjoy your podcast, and I have a question for you. We are getting our 60 + years old house resided with vinyl siding. They will be replacing the existing aluminum siding. My question is…what can I expect? I’ve gone to website that tell you to take down all your framed artwork from the walls. What happens to all the stuff already cut into the siding, dryer vents, water pipes and such?

Hope this isn’t a stupid question. Thanks for your help.

Lou Ann – No, that’s not a stupid question at all. It is standard practice that all the penetrations through the siding are properly flashed and trimmed out when the siding is installed. It couldn’t hurt to ask your contractor though. This may be specified in your agreement but it doesn’t hurt to make a call. Do not let them charge extra after you ask. We discuss this and talk about some of the things the siding contractor will need to deal with in the podcast. Thanks for your question Lou Ann.

Grading

Gary writes us, concerned about an inspection on a new house.

I bought a house 6 weeks ago , one of the comments on the inspection report was the grading by the bedroom needed attention as it was to close to the stucco and would allow moisture to pass , this section is a new addition to the house and is built on a concrete foundation , at the front of the house however ( built in 1947 ) the stucco goes all the way under the soil as such clearly built with a different code . How do you prevent moisture ingress here ? Is the stucco sealed ? How do I know if its still effective?

Thanks for the great show

Gary – Thanks for the pictures. You do not need to be concerned with the stucco or sealing it, your bigger concern is the relationship of the grading to the wall and floor behind the stucco. Your grade dirt and mulch should be below the level of the bottom of the wall. You are lucky, you have a window. Measure from the windowsill to the floor, on the inside, then measure on the outside down. This will give you an idea if the grade is too high. For our listeners and readers – we followed up with Gary and his grade is low enough.

That’s it for this weeks show. Make sure you subscribe and tell your friends.