In this audio episode of The Handyguys Podcast we introduce our participation on the 2010 True Value DIY Blog Squad and then discuss Carbon Monoxide detectors.

True Value DIY Blog Squad

First up – The Handyguys Brian and Paul would like to announce we have again been selected for the True Value DIY Blog Squad. We are excited to increase our hardware store visits and get started on some new projects we can share with our viewers and listeners.

The 2010 True Value Blog Squad is an excellent team. Make sure you check out all the other bloggers as they have some great content. The entire True Value Blog Squad is on Facebook and some are on Twitter. While you are there, make sure you follow True Value, and The Handyguys of course, on Facebook and Twitter.

Veteran Blog Squad Team

• Katie with All Bower Power
• Josh with Bungalow 23
• Layla & Kevin with Lettered Cottage

New Blog Squad Members

• Kate with Centsational Girl
• Gabrielle with DesignMom
• Kit with DIY Diva
• Joey and Lana with Joey and Lana Make a House a Home
• Roeshel with The DIY Show Off
• Sarah with ThriftyDecorChick

Carbon Monoxide (CO) Detectors

Carbon monoxide is colorless, odorless and tasteless, but highly toxic. On average, 170 people in the United States die every year from carbon monoxide produced by non-automotive consumer products. These products include malfunctioning fuel-burning appliances such as furnaces, ranges, water heaters and room heaters; engine-powered equipment such as portable generators; fireplaces; and charcoal that is burned in homes and other enclosed areas. (CPSC Document #466)

The Handyguys discuss potential new rules coming to your area regarding CO detectors. Many updated building codes are requiring them. Where should you put a CO detector? Will you need one when you remodel or sell your house? Why would you want one if you have no sources of CO in your house? These are some of the questions The Handyguys discuss in this show.

Addendum

We would like to amend some of the comments we made during the show regarding CO and CO detectors.

Sources of CO

We said “Carbon monoxide comes, “as a result of burning fossil fuels.” – In actuality CO can come from ANY incomplete combustion. Most commonly, CO, if found in elevated levels in your home, would come from things like fossil fuel burning appliances or other burning sources like wood fires.

Molar Mass

We said “Carbon monoxide is lighter than air.” Yes, its lighter but not by a significant amount. Carbon monoxide has a molar mass of 28.0, which makes it slightly lighter than air whose average molar mass is 28.8. (wikipedia). Because its similar to air in is molar mass it will not easily rise to higher portions in your house.

First Response

We said “The first thing I would do, if I had a CO detector going off, is I’d open some windows.” This isn’t the best advice if you are getting the fire department involved. Best would be to evacuate the residence, but keep the windows closed and turn off the HVAC equipment. Why? Because it can help first responders more easily trace the source of the CO. If you have only one appliance, or other piece of equipment, that burns fuel, then the source of the CO is pretty obvious. If, however, you have multiple appliances that burn fuel, such as a gas-fed hot water heater, a gas-fed stove, and a gas-fed dryer, and a gas-fed heater, then it can be very difficult, if not impossible to trace the source of the alarm and differentiate a true alarm from a faulty detector. If the house is kept sealed, then fire department personnel can make entry (utilizing proper personal protective equipment) and take a gas-meter in with them that is equipped for CO monitoring. If the CO concentration level is far greater around the hot-water heater than anywhere else in the house, then they probably found the source. If the house is opened up and vented, then you lose that ability.

Hard Wired and Batteries

We said “You have hard-wired all of your smoke detectors, right? Why is that? So that if, um, you know, the biggest problem with smoke detectors is that the battery dies, so you want to have AC electricity to it, in case that battery is dead.” We meant to say that the battery is a backup for the smoke detector in the case of a loss of electricity. Those batteries should be changed regularly, the general recommendation is to change the batteries twice a year, each time you change your clocks.

Thanks

Thanks to an avid listener and firefighter for pointing out some of our mis-speaks. We always value input from listeners and strive to be as accurate as possible.

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1. Installing Cabinet Veneer And Fireplace Conversions
2. Installing A Tile Back-splash For Your Kitchen
3. Installing Recessed Lighting

The Handyguys begin their show discussing some new green lawn tools. Their conversation was prompted by an article in the Wall Street Journal regarding some new “green” lawn tools written by Gwendolyn (Wendy) Bounds. She even tested out a new battery operated riding mower. Her video is a must view if you are considering one of these.

Certificate of Use Requirements

The Handyguys then discuss the topic of “Certificate of Use”. What’s that? In many townships across the country they are requiring certain safety items to be present in a home before a sale can proceed. Sometimes the upgrades can be difficult, expensive or just a pain.

The Handyguys discuss many of the common elements in a Certificate of Use inspection. This inspection is not to be confused with a code inspection that may be required during a major remodel. Below is some language from a typical requirements document from a local township.

Minimum Life Safety Requirements

1. Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (G.F.C.I’s) receptacles are required for receptacles located in bathrooms, powder rooms, garages, outside receptacles, vicinity of pools, saunas etc. and in kitchens where the receptacles are within six (6) feet of the waters edge of the sink. A receptacle with a single yolk that is dedicated for an appliance need not have a GFCI installed.
2. Smoke detectors are to be installed, in working order, in each bedroom, in the vicinity of the bedrooms and each floor of the dwelling including basements. In a split-level dwelling without an intervening door between adjacent levels, smoke detectors are required in the vicinity of the bedrooms and the lower level that is one story below the upper level. If an intervening door exists between adjacent levels, a smoke detector shall be installed on each level.
3. At least one operable carbon monoxide detector shall be installed in the hallway in the vicinity of the bedroom area of the dwelling.
4. For dwellings equipped with a fire suppression or sprinkler system, the applicant shall provide documentation that the system has been inspected and certified within the past 12 months by a certified inspection agency.
5. Sidewalks, driveway aprons and curbs must be in good condition. Out of level, fragmented or otherwise deteriorated sidewalks, driveway aprons and curbs must be removed and replaced. Patching shall not be permitted.
6. House numbers must be affixed on the outside of the dwelling so that they are visible from the street. The house numbers must be three and one half (3 ½) inches in height.

Sanitary Sewer Infiltration Prevention

1. Sump pumps and floor drains are to be discharged to the exterior of the dwelling. Sump pumps and floor drains connected to the sanitary sewer are illegal and must be corrected.
2. Roof drains and yard drains shall not be connected to the sanitary sewer.
3. The sewer lateral curb trap vent pipe must be six (6) inches above grade and have a secure vent cap or box. If the curb trap vent pipe is not exposed, the vent pipe must be located, raised and installed with a Philadelphia Regulation vent box. In the event that t curb trap vent cannot be located, the applicant shall obtain a registered plumber to provide documentation that the curb trap vent could not be located.

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1. How To Grow A Green Lawn
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